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Morven, Smean & Maiden Pap

Highland Walk

County/Area - Highland - Northern Highland

Author - Lou Johnson

Length - 10.2 miles / 16.6 km    Ascent - 3050 feet / 924 metres

Time - 8 hours 10 minutes    Grade - hard

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Walk Route Description

Photo from the walk - Morven, Smean & Maiden Pap
Click image to see photo description.

This Caithness walk visits the isolated hills of Morven (706 m.), Smean (511 m.) and Maiden Pap (484 m.). Despite their lowly stature this route is an interesting and demanding day in the hills. Morven and Maiden Pap have distinctive conical shapes and present walkers with steep slopes. In contrast the less shapely Smean offers fewer challenges. The surrounding moorland is wet and boggy in places with the only easy walking on the approach and return.

The start is the small parking area by the phone box (grid ref. ND073304) at the end of the minor road leading west from near Dunbeath to Braemore. After parking, bear left past the phone box, cross the bridge over Berriedale Water. At the next junction turn left on a clear track and continue ahead to pass through the house and buildings of Braeval. Ahead you have a splendid view of Maiden Pap. Continue through a gate, pass through a plantation to enter open country.

Three kilometres of easy walking along the track takes you to the derelict cottage at Corrichoich (grid ref. ND033296). On this section you have your first view of Morven. Continue ahead along a rough, grassy track past a plantation on your right. The easy walking is now over, and the next objective is the col between Morven and Carn Mor. The ground is boggy and heavy going but steady progress can be made heading southwest across the moor.

Reaching the col, head up the steep slope of Morven. There is an indistinct path, initially up through heather, which gives way to more rocky ground as you gain height. The view north provides a good excuse for regular stops. A final steep section leads to a false summit which can easily bypassed. The gradient eases for the final short walk to the summit which has a small cairn and spectacular views across much of northern Scotland.

A steep descent from Morven down to the col follows the upward route. Then head west and then south-west to the summit rocks of Smean. A final push to the summit is easiest up a gully on the northern side. To continue, return down the gully, head just east of north before tackling the steep eastern slope of the hill as you make a beeline for Maiden Pap. You now must contend with wet and boggy ground until you reach the foot of Maiden Pap.

The slopes of Maiden Pap are far steeper than those encountered on Morven, so extreme care is needed, especially in descent. As you reach the summit crags, bear to the right to find the easiest route to the summit. The descent tackles the steep northern slope. There is an intermittent feint path that starts close to a rocky outcrop on the summit area's northern side. The descent is steep and with tired legs great care is needed. Reaching the base of the slope head north-north-east across the moor aiming for the right-hand side of the closest plantation. Reaching the track, turn right and head back to the start.

Other walks nearby

Walk 3101 Ben Bhraggie traverseeasy/mod4.7 miles
Walk 1791 Tarbat Ness from Porthmahomackmoderate9.0 miles
Walk 1666 Stacks of Duncansbyeasy3.0 miles
Walk 2504 Struie circulareasy/mod4.5 miles
Walk 3649 Old Man of Hoy from Rackwickeasy/mod5.4 miles
Walk 3650 Rackwick, Old Man of Hoy & Cuilagsmod/hard9.6 miles
Walk 3648 Old Man of Hoy & Glens of Broadiface moderate10.0 miles
Walk 1897 Sandend to Cullen Coast Patheasy/mod5.0 miles
Walk 1956 Moray Coast Trail - Cullen to Portessieeasy/mod6.3 miles
Walk 2530 The Foinaven & Arkle Traversevery hard16.5 miles

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